🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.